If you own a pet, fleas and ticks are nothing new. In a special video report, Dr. Jim Humphries with the Veterinary News Network and PetDocsOnCall discusses the importance of flea and tick prevention and shares tips on how to keep pesky parasites away from your pet.

Periodontal disease is classified under two categories; gingivitis and periodontitis. Gingivitis is the more mild form of periodontal disease. With effective and timely teeth cleaning, gingivitis can be completely reversed.

Early Periodontitis

Periodontitis is a condition that may be controlled but not cured. It is often seen in pets that are over five years old. Most animals with periodontitis have bad breath, tooth mobility and bleeding gums. Severe inflammation of the gums, gum recession, alveolar bone loss (the bone that supports the tooth is "eaten away"), and pustular discharge are common signs of periodontitis.

Moderate-Advanced Periodontitis

Periodontitis is more serious than gingivitis and involves the loss of tooth support with permanent damage. At best, lesions of periodontitis are only partially reversible. Special (oral) surgical procedures are necessary in order to limit the progression of periodontitis.

Advanced Periodontitis

Advanced Periodontitis

Proper home dental care, along with regular veterinary dental checkups, will reduce the risk of periodontitis in your pets.

The idea of "training" your cat may either amuse or frighten you, but don't worry - it is possible. According to experts, it isn't that tough to teach your cat to accept a carrier, and once you do, you'll find lots of practical reasons for containing your kitty.

Some key pieces of advice for acclimating any cat to a carrier are to give your cat plenty of time to adjust and to put cat treats, tasty food or favorite toys inside the carrier in order to entice him.

The biggest benefit of crate training is safety. You'll know where your cat is and he can still be part of your activities. No more "'fraidy cats" getting loose when workmen come to your house. No more hissing fits that annoy or frighten your visitors. No more contortionist cats crammed under the seat of your car.

More and more people are traveling with their cats, and for them, carriers are travel necessities. Loose cats can distract a driver, fall out of windows, get injured by loose objects or get wedged under the accelerator or dashboard. Also, many motels allow pets only when they are crated.

Crating the cat is important even for just a short trip around the block. Obviously, a good many cats and people are injured in auto accidents because their cats aren't restrained. Also, rescue workers may be clawed or bitten by loose cats in car accidents.

Another benefit of crate training is acceptance of a cage if the kitty must be boarded, hospitalized or shipped.

Crates are also useful for training cats that misbehave when separated form their owners. A carrier not only keeps these cats from getting into trouble, but also often serves as a safe haven - a cozy, contained space where the cat has privacy and a place of his own. Of course, a crate at home must be used humanely and not abused. No pet should be left alone in a crate for more than a couple of hours.

Many cats find crates stressful at first. That fear can usually be overcome with patience and treats. You don't have to face the grueling training task unprepared. Many pet shops offer pamphlets on crate training; some even have training videos. At the very least, when you're buying a cat carrier, ask for the manufacturer's sales sheet describing the crate's features. It usually explains what size carrier to buy, various uses and the basics of crate training.

Here are some basic steps for crate training your cat:

Place the carrier (with its door open) in a room where he can explore the crate on his own. Put food and toys inside to draw his attention. Leave the crate alone for several days

After the cat adjusts to the open crate, you can lock him inside. Entice him to enter the carrier with food or treats, and then latch the door. The first time the cat enters the crate, he should not be locked inside for longer than 10 minutes. Gradually increase the amount of time he is locked inside. Do not let the cat out if he cries or hisses; that only reinforces bad behavior.

Put favorite toys or soft bedding (particularly an old towel, blanket or sweater that carries the owner's scent) inside the crate in order to help make him feel more secure. In larger crates, you can even put a litter box and water bowl. When kitty settles down, re-open the door to the carrier so he can come and go at will. Once your cat accepts the carrier, the next step is to get him used to movement. The crate should be picked up and carried around carefully. Talk soothingly and give treats.

Slowly acclimate kitty to traveling in your car. At first, just sit in the car with him, and then take him on short errands. Each time you put your crated kitty in the car, increase your travel time. Make the experienceas pleasant as possible - using toys and treats. Don't limit your car trips to visits to the veterinarian's office and boarding kennel.

Admittedly, for some cats, slow training doesn't work. A quick method of getting a cat into a carrier is as follows: Sit the carrier up-ended so its open door is at the top. Hold the cat firmly by the scruff of the neck and gently lower him into the crate. Be sure to support the cat's rump with your hand.

In addition, not every cat needs to travel in a carrier. For a trip to the vet, for example, an especially aggressive cat may do better enclosed in a pillowcase or cloth laundry bag. A docile cat may be content in a wrapped soft towel on the passenger's lap. Owners must evaluate their cat's individual personality and do what they think is best.

Cat carriers (pet carriers) come in all sizes, designs, materials and prices. Pet stores, veterinary hospitals, catalog companies and online outfits offer large choices. Cardboard carriers are not recommended, as most cats can find ways to slip out and escape.

When it's time to give your dog a bath, you should be well prepared for the process. Not only is it important to have the know-how for bathing your pet, it is also important to be well organized.

Dogs are not similar to people and should only be bathed when they are dirty or when they need a flea or medicinal bath. Over-bathing removes the natural oils in their skin and fur, and can leave the skin dried out and flaky. Dry flaky skin very often results in scratching. Frequent bathing also reduces the coat's insulative and waterproofing capacities. However, certain dog breeds that are prone to skin conditions benefit from regular bathing. Cocker spaniels, for example, benefit when bathed every 6-8 weeks.

When selecting a shampoo, it's best to use a good quality shampoo that is specifically formulated for dogs. Don't use a human shampoo. They are not formulated for a dog's skin or coat. A conditioner (also formulated for dogs) is a good idea, particularly if there are tangles and lots of knots.

To start, the best place to bathe your dog is in the bathtub or in a utility tub. If you plan to bathe your dog outdoors, make sure your hose has both hot and cold water. A cold bath is not only disagreeable, but can also cause rapid hypothermia. Bathing indoors is a challenge; as all escape routes need to be considered.

Bathe Your Dog in a Bathtub or Utility Tub

The following are some basic guidelines for bathing your dog:

Make sure that all your supplies are within reach before putting your pet into the tub. Dogs don't seem to remain in the tub very long when left alone. Your supplies should include shampoo, conditioner, scissors, several towels, cotton balls and a plastic container (for rinsing). If you are planning to clip the toenails, make sure that the nail clippers are also within reach.

Clipping a dog's toenails often causes some bleeding. If bleeding occurs, a dab of Stypic powder (or another veterinary recommended powder) on the affected nail usually does the trick. Sometimes, several applications of the powder are necessary. If you are hesitant to clip your dog's nails, have it done at your local veterinary hospital or pet grooming salon.

A rubber mat should be placed in the bottom of the tub so your dog's feet don't slide around, and so he or she will feel more secure and safe. Most dogs don't want to be there in the first place, so you need to make them feel as comfortable as possible.

Place one or several cotton balls in each of your dog's ears. Don't push the cotton too far down the ear canal; however, it does need to remain securely in place. The cotton helps keep water out of his or her ears. A drop of artificial tears (placed in the corner of each eye) prevents the shampoo from irritating the eyes.

Properly lift your dog in the tub, avoiding injury to both you and your dog. Place one arm in front of the dog's chest and one arm behind the rear legs, just under the tail. Make sure you bend your knees (not your back) when lifting, particularly if the dog is heavy. If your pet is too heavy to lift by yourself, always get help. Nothing hurts more than an injured back.

Turn the water on slowly and adjust the temperature. The water should be lukewarm. Thoroughly wet his or her coat down with the spray hose starting from the back end moving forward. Then, begin lathering your pet. Work the shampoo into a thick, rich lather. If you are using flea shampoo, some brands recommend leaving it on for several minutes. Read the directions on the container and follow them carefully or the results may not be achieved. Lather the main body, stomach, legs, feet, and tail.

Finally, pour a small amount of shampoo into your hands and gently lather the fur around the face and on the head. Be careful not to get the lather into your dog's eyes.

When rinsing, start with the head and work towards the rear. Cover your dog's eyes with your hand and gently rinse off the top of the head and around the eyes. Then, gently cover your dog's nose and rinse off the rest of the face and neck. Next, work your way down the body, making sure to rinse out all of the suds and shampoo.

If you are applying a conditioner, now is the time. Make sure you follow the manufacturers recommendations for applying the product. If a conditioner is applied, another rinse is probably necessary.

Remove the cotton balls from his or her ears and gently squeeze any excess water from the coat.

Rinse Your Dog From The Head To The Rear

The drying process is generally the part that dogs like best. Most dogs enjoy getting a vigorous rub down. To finish drying your pet, a hair dryer can be used. Never use a high heat setting and pay careful attention. Do not allow your dog to become overheated.

If you have questions about the type of shampoo, how often to bathe your pet, or whether or not to use a conditioner, don't hesitate to call your veterinarian.

We are pleased to provide you with some information regarding blood testing. Do not hesitate to call the hospital if you have specific questions.

Many technologies that help humans live longer, healthier lives are available to your pet. By performing some basic blood tests, your veterinarian can gather information concerning the health and well being of your pet.

COMPLETE BLOOD COUNT

This blood test actually consists of several tests that evaluate the number and type of blood cells in the circulation. Cells that are evaluated consist of white blood cells (WBC), red blood cells (RBC), and platelets.

Laboratory Technician Counting Blood Cells

White blood cells are important in helping the body fight infection. Red blood cells are fundamental for carrying oxygen to the body’s tissues. The measurement of these cells can indicate anemia, infection, leukemia, stress, and inflammation.

Close-Up View - Canine Red Blood Cells

Close-Up View - The Arrow Is pointing To A Neutrophil (Type Of White Blood Cell)

Platelets are involved in the blood clotting process and if low (in number) can indicate a bleeding disorder.

The hematocrit (HCT) provides information pertaining to the relative number of red blood cells (RBC) in circulation. This test is used to diagnose anemia and dehydration.

BLOOD CHEMISTRY

These tests survey many of the organ systems of the body in order to make sure they are working properly.

Albumin (ALB) - Low levels indicates chronic liver or kidney disease, intestinal disease, or intestinal parasites (hookworm).

Alanine Aminotransferase (ALT) - Elevated with liver disease or injury.

Alkaline Phosphatase (ALKP) - Elevated levels can indicate liver disease or Cushing’s disease.

Amylase (AMYL) - Elevated blood levels can indicate pancreatic and / or kidney disease.

Blood Urea Nitrogen (BUN) - Reflects kidney and liver disease as well as dehydration.

Cholesterol (CHOL) - Elevated levels are seen in many disorders. Some include liver and kidney disease and hypothroidism.

Creatinine (CREA) - Elevated levels can be due to kidney disease or urinary tract obstruction.

Blood Glucose (GLU) - High levels can indicate diabetes. Low levels can indicate liver disease, infection or certain tumors.

Total Bilirubin (TBIL) - Levels of Bilirubin are useful in diagnosing anemia and bile duct problems.

Total Protein (TP) - This can detect many conditions. Some include liver, kidney, and gasrointestinal diseases as well as dehydration.

BLOOD ELECTROLYTES

Calcium (Ca) - Increased levels are seen with certain tumors and kidney and parathyroiud gland disease.

Phosphorus (PHOS) - Elevated levels can indicate kidney disease.

Sodium, Potassium, Chloride - all should be within normal levels. Vomiting, dehydration, and diarrhea can affect their levels.

A puppy likes biting and chewing on almost anything that enters its world. Just as with jumping, biting between litter mates is their style of play. Biting also teaches them how to use their main hunting tool, their teeth. Unfortunately, this behavior often carries over into their interactions with the members of their new home.

Puppies have very sharp teeth and a bite or nip can hurt. Along with inflicting pain, a dog bite can be terrifying to small children.

There are several methods that are used to eliminate this unwanted behavior.

Holding the Mouth Shut
The simplest method for handling this behavior is to very, very quickly grab the puppy's mouth and hold it shut. While holding the mouth shut, say a single, stern "No" in a low tone. Holding the mouth closed is usually done by placing the thumb over the top of the puppy's nose and the fingers below the bottom of the jaw.

Holding the mouth closed for four to five seconds is sufficient and the puppy usually whines. Don't try to cause them pain; there is no need to firmly squeeze the mouth. After releasing the puppy's mouth, don't make any further fuss, but go on with whatever you were doing.

It will take a few sessions for the puppy to catch on, but the animal will soon put together the facts that the bite instantly causes his mouth to be held shut.

It's not recommended to bring children into this form of discipline. Children can get hurt or they can hurt the puppy.

Startle Response and Redirection
As soon as the puppy bites down, make a sudden, abrupt, high-pitched, loud "yelp" sound. This imitates the sound that a littermate would make if bitten by the puppy. This sound should be so sudden and sharp that the puppy is immediately startled and stops the behavior. If done correctly, the puppy immediately removes his mouth and looks bewildered. At that point, quickly substitute a toy (such as a ball) for the puppy to chew on.

This method redirects the puppy's biting behavior to the ball. The puppy learns that it is no fun to bite; however, chewing the toy is ok. It may be necessary to repeat this process several times during the puppy's play period. If the "yelps" make the puppy more excited, it's best to try another approach.

Stop the action immediately and dramatically leave the room when the puppy bites. This is certainly a method children can use. After multiple times the puppy will learn that every time she bites, she loses her playmate, and that's no fun at all.

Important! No matter what method you use, do not entice the puppy to bite you. Games like tug-of-war and waving your hands in front of the puppy may encourage him (or her) to bite.

The young of many animals have been come to be called by special names. A young eel, for example, is an elver. Many young animal, of course, are often referred to simply as infants, babies, younglets, or younglings.

Bunny: rabbit
Calf: cattle, elephant, antelope, rhino, hippo, whale, others
Cheeper: grouse, partridge, quail
Chick, chicken: fowl
Cockerel: rooster
Codling, sprang: codfish
Colt: horse (male)
Cub: lion, bear, shark, fox, others
Cygnet: swan
Duckling: duck
Eaglet: eagle
Elver: eel
Eyas: hawk, others
Fawn: deer
Filly: horse (female)
Fingerling: fish generally
Flapper: wild fowl
Fledgling: birds generally
Foal: horse, zebra, others
Fry: fish generally
Kid: goat
Kit: fox, beaver, rabbit, cat
Kitten, kitty, catling: cats, other small mammals
Lamb, lambkin, cosset, hog: sheep
Leveret: hare
Nestling: birds generally
Owlet: owl
Parr, smolt, grilse: salmon
Piglet, shoat, farrow, suckling: pig
Polliwog, tadpole: frog
Poult: turkey
Pullet: hen
Pup: dog, seal, sea lion, fox
Spike, blinker, tinker: mackerel
Squab: pigeon
Squeaker: pigeon, others
Whelp: dog, tiger, beasts of prey
Yearling: cattle, sheep, horse, others